So sorry I've been MIA on here! There's a lot going on in my life right now (exciting stuff of course!) so I've had to take a break on blogging for the moment. But now I'm back with another requested post: Blackheads, how to get rid of them and prevent them!
So first, what is a blackhead? Blackheads are actually called open comedones and they are oil that was secreting from the skin as normal but got trapped at the top, therefore clogging the pore an oxidizing into the color you normally see as a blackhead.
First things first, WASH YOUR FACE. If you don't have a good cleansing routine followed by a moisturizer, then there isn't much I can help with because all my tips will begin with a cleansing routine. Once you have a routine in place, add a gentle facial scrub once or twice a week, no more than that. Facial scrubs help to loosen up dead cells and trapped oils in the skin to clear the pores. Work the scrub in circular motions to loosen the oil.
Next are extractions, I'm not going too in-depth with this because it basically squeezing the oil out of the pores. BUT I'm also not giving you a go ahead to "pick" at your face. Extractions should be done as gently as possible, and if you're not sure how to do it properly, then don't. If you can see marks on your skin from your nails, stop what you're doing. If you break the skin, the trapped oil will mix with bacteria in the broken skin and cause a pimple, let's not do that! My ultimate tip is go to your esthetician for regular facials and ask for her to show you how to properly keep up the work between facials at home. I also like Biore strips for when I need to quickly remove some blackheads without tormenting my face with my fingers.
Finally, the moisturizer. To make sure blackheads are less-likely to come back, use a moisturizer that is non-comedogenic. That big long word means the product won't clog your pores causing more blackheads or breakouts. In case you're not sure which product is non-comedogenic, check the packaging very well because it will be written on it either in the front or the back. If it doesn't say it(sometimes its hiding) then put it back on the shelf, chances are it's not.
Thanks for reading and suggesting topics, if you have anything you want to ask or any topics to suggest don't hesitate to comment below or post on my facebook page PresleyCharlotteMUA.
Have a great day! Thanks for reading!
Presley Charlotte :)
Wednesday, 17 September 2014
Wednesday, 13 August 2014
Let's Talk Skin Care: Tips for Treating Acne Gently and Effectively
Acne is a sensitive skin condition and should not be over aggressed. Believe it or not cleansing too much isn't the best thing for your skin, but a proper skin care routine is key to treating any skin condition. These few tips are great for those who are treating adult acne or pre-pubescent acne in pre-teens and teenagers.
Tip #1: A proper skin care routine, obviously. BUT, cleansing in the morning isn't entirely a necessary step. Cleansing at night is most definitely necessary, but while you're sleeping your skin doesn't accumulate as much pollution and dirt as during the day, so a simple toner or astringent is all you need to use to start your day.
Tip #2: Herbal steam baths! To do this, you fill a bowl or your sink with scolding hot water and hold a towel over your head as you lean over the water allowing the steam to open the pores. This is effective on its own prior to using a clay mask or treatment mask. To make this more effective, add a few drops of rosemary essential oil, teat tree essential oil or even willow bark essential oil. Each of them have astringent, soothing, and hydrating properties. Steam the face for 5-10 minutes, pat dry with a towel and moisturize or follow with a treatment mask.
Tip #3: Instead of an astringent (toner with salicylic acid), use witch hazel, or the steam bath listen above. Witch hazel has great antiseptic properties and is an effective toner for hormonal acne such as pubescent acne or pregnancy acne, as salicylic acid should not be used during pregnancy.
Tip #4: Use a treatment moisturizer. Treatment creams and lotions usually contain salicylic acid or glycolic acid. For teenagers, I recommend a low percentage of salicylic acid because %2 and higher can be quite irritating and glycolic acid exfoliates the top layer of the skin which is very unnecessary for young skin. Treatment creams (such as Bioderma Sebium Al, Avene Cleanance K, La Roche Possay Effeclar Duo) are best used at night, but if used during the day they should be used with an SPF of 15-30.
Tip #5: Look for oil free (especially mineral oil because it is a pore clogger, same with petrolatum) and non-comedogenic. Oil isn't a bad thing for acne, however products on the market don't always have the highest of quality ingredients so they can produce large quantities at a low cost. Most often the oil in moisturizing products is mineral oil, which isn't the best choice and will clog pores. So look for oil free to avoid this, also non-comedogenic means that the ingredients in the product have been tested for quality and do not clog pore. This is important as acne is often caused by a build up of dead cells and over production of oil in the pores, we don't want to clog them more!
Tip #6: This goes with tip #1, don't use harsh facial scrubs too often. I recommend treating the skin condition as gently as possible and once it is cleared up, add a scrub ONE day a week to keep the pores clear of dead skin cells as a preventative measure only. Clay masks are great to follow up after a scrub because the pores are clear and can now be treated to prevent bacteria growth. And continue with the above treatments.
All these tips can be used together as a routine or you can pick one or a couple to try as treatments! I hope this was helpful for you all and good luck!
Presley Charlotte :)
Follow me :
Facebook: PresleyCharlotteMUA
Instagram: @PresleyCharlotteMUA
Pinterest: Presley McGlashing
Twitter: @PresCharlotte
Tip #1: A proper skin care routine, obviously. BUT, cleansing in the morning isn't entirely a necessary step. Cleansing at night is most definitely necessary, but while you're sleeping your skin doesn't accumulate as much pollution and dirt as during the day, so a simple toner or astringent is all you need to use to start your day.
Tip #2: Herbal steam baths! To do this, you fill a bowl or your sink with scolding hot water and hold a towel over your head as you lean over the water allowing the steam to open the pores. This is effective on its own prior to using a clay mask or treatment mask. To make this more effective, add a few drops of rosemary essential oil, teat tree essential oil or even willow bark essential oil. Each of them have astringent, soothing, and hydrating properties. Steam the face for 5-10 minutes, pat dry with a towel and moisturize or follow with a treatment mask.
Tip #3: Instead of an astringent (toner with salicylic acid), use witch hazel, or the steam bath listen above. Witch hazel has great antiseptic properties and is an effective toner for hormonal acne such as pubescent acne or pregnancy acne, as salicylic acid should not be used during pregnancy.
Tip #4: Use a treatment moisturizer. Treatment creams and lotions usually contain salicylic acid or glycolic acid. For teenagers, I recommend a low percentage of salicylic acid because %2 and higher can be quite irritating and glycolic acid exfoliates the top layer of the skin which is very unnecessary for young skin. Treatment creams (such as Bioderma Sebium Al, Avene Cleanance K, La Roche Possay Effeclar Duo) are best used at night, but if used during the day they should be used with an SPF of 15-30.
Tip #5: Look for oil free (especially mineral oil because it is a pore clogger, same with petrolatum) and non-comedogenic. Oil isn't a bad thing for acne, however products on the market don't always have the highest of quality ingredients so they can produce large quantities at a low cost. Most often the oil in moisturizing products is mineral oil, which isn't the best choice and will clog pores. So look for oil free to avoid this, also non-comedogenic means that the ingredients in the product have been tested for quality and do not clog pore. This is important as acne is often caused by a build up of dead cells and over production of oil in the pores, we don't want to clog them more!
Tip #6: This goes with tip #1, don't use harsh facial scrubs too often. I recommend treating the skin condition as gently as possible and once it is cleared up, add a scrub ONE day a week to keep the pores clear of dead skin cells as a preventative measure only. Clay masks are great to follow up after a scrub because the pores are clear and can now be treated to prevent bacteria growth. And continue with the above treatments.
All these tips can be used together as a routine or you can pick one or a couple to try as treatments! I hope this was helpful for you all and good luck!
Presley Charlotte :)
Follow me :
Facebook: PresleyCharlotteMUA
Instagram: @PresleyCharlotteMUA
Pinterest: Presley McGlashing
Twitter: @PresCharlotte
Tuesday, 12 August 2014
Let's Talk Skin Types: Dry Skin
Dry skin is the complete opposite of oily skin. Oily skin is characterized by an excess of oil, dry skin is characterized by a lack of oil, flaking skin, and the tight, itchy feeling on the surface of the skin. People often confuse dry skin with dehydrated skin, but there are subtle differences.
Dehydrated skin is a lack of water, dry is a lack of oil. It's safe to say that most, if not all, skin types are also dehydrated because from the moment we wake up to the moment we go to bed we lose water. Always keep hydrated and use a proper moisturizer for your skin type to prevent moisture loss from happening quicker.
When dry skin loses oil, the surface of the skin becomes dry, flaky and itchy. The loss of natural oils also depletes the NMF (Natural Moisture Factor) in the skin causing more moisture loss (dehydration). Dry skin can be accompanied by sensitivity to climate change (hot and cold) and can have the tendency to be more red around the nose and cheeks.
There are some products that will help to exfoliate dry skin using glycolic acid to allow the active ingredients to absorb into the skin at a more effective rate. Sensitive skin should not use these products because it can further irritate the skin. People with dry skin should look for products with natural oils, such as jojoba, grape seed, essential oils. Shea butter and cocoa butter are two ingredients to look for to soothe dry itchy skin, they also are perfect to soothe eczema and psoriasis.
For cleansing dry skin, always use a milk or crème based cleanser that is soap free and preferably doesn't foam up, and a toner that doesn't contain any astringent (salicylic acid) but something that is soothing and more suited for normal to dry skin and even sensitive skin types.
Hopefully this was helpful and if there are an questions please comment below!!
Thanks for reading!
Presley Charlotte :)
Dehydrated skin is a lack of water, dry is a lack of oil. It's safe to say that most, if not all, skin types are also dehydrated because from the moment we wake up to the moment we go to bed we lose water. Always keep hydrated and use a proper moisturizer for your skin type to prevent moisture loss from happening quicker.
When dry skin loses oil, the surface of the skin becomes dry, flaky and itchy. The loss of natural oils also depletes the NMF (Natural Moisture Factor) in the skin causing more moisture loss (dehydration). Dry skin can be accompanied by sensitivity to climate change (hot and cold) and can have the tendency to be more red around the nose and cheeks.
There are some products that will help to exfoliate dry skin using glycolic acid to allow the active ingredients to absorb into the skin at a more effective rate. Sensitive skin should not use these products because it can further irritate the skin. People with dry skin should look for products with natural oils, such as jojoba, grape seed, essential oils. Shea butter and cocoa butter are two ingredients to look for to soothe dry itchy skin, they also are perfect to soothe eczema and psoriasis.
For cleansing dry skin, always use a milk or crème based cleanser that is soap free and preferably doesn't foam up, and a toner that doesn't contain any astringent (salicylic acid) but something that is soothing and more suited for normal to dry skin and even sensitive skin types.
Hopefully this was helpful and if there are an questions please comment below!!
Thanks for reading!
Presley Charlotte :)
Tuesday, 5 August 2014
Let's Talk Skin Types : Oily Skin
I used to think that oily skin was like the plague, as did many of my clients and friends. The truth is, oily skin is the "golden" skin type, and here's why:
First and foremost, it ages slower than all other skin types because of the amount of oil produced and the thickness of the skin. Without this oil our skin would be dry and flaky and thin, which ages must faster because it lose moisture much faster. The oil on the skin is part of the skin's Natural Moisture Factor (NMF) and without that it will lose moisture quicker and turn into a dryer skin type.
The NMF is a product of the skins natural oils and sweat mixing together to create a protective layer that is acidic enough to disallow the growth of acne causing bacteria. Click here for my post in the importance of products with the proper pH. Without this NMF, airborne bacteria or bacteria that can be transferred from our hands, phones, pillows, and anything else that comes in contact with out skin (makeup brushes, be sure to clean those regularly!) can settle into the skin while it is trying to replenish the oil level, further clogging the pores and causing acne and blackheads. This is what gives sebum and oily skin types and bad name, and the products geared towards young skin and pubescent skin aren't making things any better, they're wreaking havoc on your skin!
Products like Clean and Clear and Neutrogena are products that are meant to strip away the oil on the surface of the skin to reduce "shine", however they are causing more damage than that "shine". Not only is it stripping the oils causing the skin to turn alkaline and allowing bacteria to enter it and infect, but after a few hours the effects of the shine reducing and acne cleansing products will be reversed.
The skin is a fully functioning organ, it does everything your internal organs can do, and I will have another post on that another time, but one of those things is secretion. The skin has sweat glands and oil glands, just like the body has a thyroid gland, hormonal glands, adrenal glands, etc. These glands become overactive when stimulated, same for the ones directly affecting the skin. The action of scrubbing the face too aggressively or using products to strip the oils will stimulate these glands to produce more. So, all that oil stripping is backfiring, because it will produce twice as much, if not more! The more oil is left on the skin and the more gentle the products used, the better your skin will react and there will be less oil produced.
So, if you have oily skin and you're looking for products that wont strip the oil, but help to hydrate and keep the NMF exactly where it should be, you should look for products are that based on natural essential oils. Essential oils and vegetable and plant based oils actually mimic our own oils produced and are readily absorbed into the skin. Essential oils should NOT be applied directly to the skin, they should be massaged into the skin with a carrier oil (any vegetable or plant oil, like grape seed oil or jojoba oil, or even avocado oils). Essential oils act as very good serums as well because most have healing properties that can help with excess oil or acne and even dry parts of the face without stripping the skin.
If you don't want to play the guessing game with essential oils and you would like a product that does it all for you, look for Phyto5 by Phytobiodermie, it is a professional product usually only sold in spas. It is based on essential oils and there are 5 different lines you can chose from depending on your skin type. If you have oily skin the product you should be using is the Phyto5 Wood element line. This product contains a lot of essential oils specific to the needs of oily skin and after using my night cream for some time now, I have noticed a huge difference in the amount of oil produced on my T-zone. This line also has milk cleansers and toners to gently cleanse the skin of impurities and leaving a healthy amount of NMF.
The proof is in the pudding, after a few weeks of taking care of your skin, using gentle products (click here for the skin care routine post), essential oils (if you want to) and properly moisturizing the skin, you will notice a difference in your complexion! But keep in mind, that change within the skin doesn't happen overnight! You have to be patient!
Thanks for reading, keep hydrated, keep smiling and have an awesome day!
Presley Charlotte :)
First and foremost, it ages slower than all other skin types because of the amount of oil produced and the thickness of the skin. Without this oil our skin would be dry and flaky and thin, which ages must faster because it lose moisture much faster. The oil on the skin is part of the skin's Natural Moisture Factor (NMF) and without that it will lose moisture quicker and turn into a dryer skin type.
The NMF is a product of the skins natural oils and sweat mixing together to create a protective layer that is acidic enough to disallow the growth of acne causing bacteria. Click here for my post in the importance of products with the proper pH. Without this NMF, airborne bacteria or bacteria that can be transferred from our hands, phones, pillows, and anything else that comes in contact with out skin (makeup brushes, be sure to clean those regularly!) can settle into the skin while it is trying to replenish the oil level, further clogging the pores and causing acne and blackheads. This is what gives sebum and oily skin types and bad name, and the products geared towards young skin and pubescent skin aren't making things any better, they're wreaking havoc on your skin!
Products like Clean and Clear and Neutrogena are products that are meant to strip away the oil on the surface of the skin to reduce "shine", however they are causing more damage than that "shine". Not only is it stripping the oils causing the skin to turn alkaline and allowing bacteria to enter it and infect, but after a few hours the effects of the shine reducing and acne cleansing products will be reversed.
The skin is a fully functioning organ, it does everything your internal organs can do, and I will have another post on that another time, but one of those things is secretion. The skin has sweat glands and oil glands, just like the body has a thyroid gland, hormonal glands, adrenal glands, etc. These glands become overactive when stimulated, same for the ones directly affecting the skin. The action of scrubbing the face too aggressively or using products to strip the oils will stimulate these glands to produce more. So, all that oil stripping is backfiring, because it will produce twice as much, if not more! The more oil is left on the skin and the more gentle the products used, the better your skin will react and there will be less oil produced.
So, if you have oily skin and you're looking for products that wont strip the oil, but help to hydrate and keep the NMF exactly where it should be, you should look for products are that based on natural essential oils. Essential oils and vegetable and plant based oils actually mimic our own oils produced and are readily absorbed into the skin. Essential oils should NOT be applied directly to the skin, they should be massaged into the skin with a carrier oil (any vegetable or plant oil, like grape seed oil or jojoba oil, or even avocado oils). Essential oils act as very good serums as well because most have healing properties that can help with excess oil or acne and even dry parts of the face without stripping the skin.
If you don't want to play the guessing game with essential oils and you would like a product that does it all for you, look for Phyto5 by Phytobiodermie, it is a professional product usually only sold in spas. It is based on essential oils and there are 5 different lines you can chose from depending on your skin type. If you have oily skin the product you should be using is the Phyto5 Wood element line. This product contains a lot of essential oils specific to the needs of oily skin and after using my night cream for some time now, I have noticed a huge difference in the amount of oil produced on my T-zone. This line also has milk cleansers and toners to gently cleanse the skin of impurities and leaving a healthy amount of NMF.
The proof is in the pudding, after a few weeks of taking care of your skin, using gentle products (click here for the skin care routine post), essential oils (if you want to) and properly moisturizing the skin, you will notice a difference in your complexion! But keep in mind, that change within the skin doesn't happen overnight! You have to be patient!
Thanks for reading, keep hydrated, keep smiling and have an awesome day!
Presley Charlotte :)
Wednesday, 23 July 2014
Let's Talk Skin Care: Importance of a Daily (and Nightly) Routine
Welcome back to my blog! Today's post is about the importance of a good routine of cleansing, toning, and moisturizing! On almost a daily basis I hear "I wash with bar soap", "I don't moisturize, I'm too oily", "I don't do anything at all". While some people don't appear to have significant issues with their skin, continuing to not cleanse properly and avoiding moisturizing is going to wreak havoc on your skin!
Here is the basic routine : Cleanse, tone and moisturize. But with what? and when? You're going to see everywhere that you should wash your face twice a day and follow the same routine morning and night. That is only half true. In the morning your skin should only need and quick toning with your toner or micellar lotion (depending on the sensitivity of your skin) or an astringent(with salicylic acid, for oily or acne prone skin). Followed by your daytime moisturizer with SPF(or a separate sunscreen if needed) and eye cream, I like to use an eye gel because they're cooling, soothing and they de-puff and revitalize the eyes.
At night is when you should be doing the optimal cleansing. I always recommend a gentle cleanser because they don't strip the skin of its natural oils and the NMF(natural moisture factor). For a gentle cleanser it is best to use a milk cleanser for all skin types, or if your skin is prone to acne or extreme sebum secretions(super oily) then I would recommend a micellar gel as it is very gentle and great for sensitive skin conditions. Micellar waters and gels do not need to be rinsed, however when using them to remove makeup I recommend a second swipe with the products or a quick rinse.
Why do we cleanse? To remove makeup that was applied, and the oil and dirt we may have accumulated throughout the day. Everyone knows that you should cleanse at night, but not many people actually do it! It is obvious why we should cleanse at night, but some don't realize that by not following the basic routine at night they are causing more premature aging, more clogged pores, more acne, more sensitivity, and more risk for reactions towards makeup and bacteria.
There are many types of cleanser you can use and find on the market, like gels and foaming cleansers. The only time I would recommend a foaming cleanser is for acneic skin to use a mouse that is still quite gentle and doesn't have a harsh lather, but will effectively remove excess oil and dirt from the pores as well as any surface bacteria, followed by an astringent or gentle toner and a moisturizer. I will have posts about skin types and the right products for each type coming soon.
Some of my favorite cleansers are La Roche Possay milk or gel(micellar) cleansers, Phyto 5 milk cleansers, Uriage Micellar Water, Dr Renaud Cleansing Milk, and even Spectro gel and Cetaphil are good choices!
After cleansing at night, use your toner or astringent and follow with your nightly moisturizing routine. I always recommend a serum packed with antioxidants and vitamins that are specific to any "cures" your skin needs(anti-aging, anti-acne, anti-redness, etc) then your rich night cream with complementary ingredients to your serum. And of course a rich hydrating eye cream specific to your needs(puffiness, dark circles, aging and fine lines, etc).
For the toners, if you have balanced to dry skin or sensitive skin I recommend a hydrating toner that specifies dry or sensitive skin. If you have mature skin you can use the same type of toner. For oily skin I recommend a hydrating toner or an astringent depending on how clogged the pores are and if there is acne present an astringent will help to disinfect. Toners are necessary in the routine because they bring the skin back to the natural pH level after cleansing, and they prep the skin to better receive the moisturizers and serums you would use. Click here for my post on the pH scale and why it is important for your skin.
I like to use thermal waters for toners as well as a mid day refresher. Thermal waters are natural spring water that have extra minerals that are naturally present. These minerals help to rehydrate and remineralize the skin when it is lacking hydration or it is quite sensitive. Companies that have these thermal waters are Vichy, Avene Thermal Water, Uriage Thermal Water, La Roche Possay. The waters are also considered sterile cosmetics because when packaging these products the labs are all sterilized, the scientist are showered and suited in a sterile head to toe suit and the products are put in a pressurized can (like hairspray) so they do not require a preservative.
After toning comes moisturizing. Serums and heavy creams can be used during the day (usually winter when the air is dryer) however, they work best at night. The reason for this is that when you are resting and sleeping, your skin is also resting and regenerating itself 30% more than if you were awake and running errands and allowing pollution and damaging UV rays to attack it. When your skin regenerate itself at night it readily accepts the products you apply that much better. This is why I say that if you're going to spend the money on a good quality, somewhat expensive cream buy the night cream! And if there's some leftover, get the serum too!
What is a serum and why should I use it? Serums are additives to a skin care routine that are lighter in texture than a lotion and they penetrate the skins layers all the way down to the dermis (second layer) while the creams and lotions only go down the first layer. This is why the serum is applied first and why it is so effective! some of my favorite drugstore serums are the Vichy Aqualia Thermal Serum, Reversa Antioxidant Green Tea Serum, Caudalie Vinoperfect Radiance Serum, and the list could go on forever! My favorite professional line is Phyto5 and they have everything from day and night creams, cleansers and toners for all skin types and serums that can be used while doing a mini facial massage to get the circulation moving and also to be applied under the complementary clay masks or night creams. They are worth looking into and I will have some product reviews coming shortly!
Thanks for reading and please share this along with friends and family and of course feedback and questions are always welcome!
Presley Charlotte :)
Here is the basic routine : Cleanse, tone and moisturize. But with what? and when? You're going to see everywhere that you should wash your face twice a day and follow the same routine morning and night. That is only half true. In the morning your skin should only need and quick toning with your toner or micellar lotion (depending on the sensitivity of your skin) or an astringent(with salicylic acid, for oily or acne prone skin). Followed by your daytime moisturizer with SPF(or a separate sunscreen if needed) and eye cream, I like to use an eye gel because they're cooling, soothing and they de-puff and revitalize the eyes.
At night is when you should be doing the optimal cleansing. I always recommend a gentle cleanser because they don't strip the skin of its natural oils and the NMF(natural moisture factor). For a gentle cleanser it is best to use a milk cleanser for all skin types, or if your skin is prone to acne or extreme sebum secretions(super oily) then I would recommend a micellar gel as it is very gentle and great for sensitive skin conditions. Micellar waters and gels do not need to be rinsed, however when using them to remove makeup I recommend a second swipe with the products or a quick rinse.
Why do we cleanse? To remove makeup that was applied, and the oil and dirt we may have accumulated throughout the day. Everyone knows that you should cleanse at night, but not many people actually do it! It is obvious why we should cleanse at night, but some don't realize that by not following the basic routine at night they are causing more premature aging, more clogged pores, more acne, more sensitivity, and more risk for reactions towards makeup and bacteria.
There are many types of cleanser you can use and find on the market, like gels and foaming cleansers. The only time I would recommend a foaming cleanser is for acneic skin to use a mouse that is still quite gentle and doesn't have a harsh lather, but will effectively remove excess oil and dirt from the pores as well as any surface bacteria, followed by an astringent or gentle toner and a moisturizer. I will have posts about skin types and the right products for each type coming soon.
Some of my favorite cleansers are La Roche Possay milk or gel(micellar) cleansers, Phyto 5 milk cleansers, Uriage Micellar Water, Dr Renaud Cleansing Milk, and even Spectro gel and Cetaphil are good choices!
For the toners, if you have balanced to dry skin or sensitive skin I recommend a hydrating toner that specifies dry or sensitive skin. If you have mature skin you can use the same type of toner. For oily skin I recommend a hydrating toner or an astringent depending on how clogged the pores are and if there is acne present an astringent will help to disinfect. Toners are necessary in the routine because they bring the skin back to the natural pH level after cleansing, and they prep the skin to better receive the moisturizers and serums you would use. Click here for my post on the pH scale and why it is important for your skin.
I like to use thermal waters for toners as well as a mid day refresher. Thermal waters are natural spring water that have extra minerals that are naturally present. These minerals help to rehydrate and remineralize the skin when it is lacking hydration or it is quite sensitive. Companies that have these thermal waters are Vichy, Avene Thermal Water, Uriage Thermal Water, La Roche Possay. The waters are also considered sterile cosmetics because when packaging these products the labs are all sterilized, the scientist are showered and suited in a sterile head to toe suit and the products are put in a pressurized can (like hairspray) so they do not require a preservative.
After toning comes moisturizing. Serums and heavy creams can be used during the day (usually winter when the air is dryer) however, they work best at night. The reason for this is that when you are resting and sleeping, your skin is also resting and regenerating itself 30% more than if you were awake and running errands and allowing pollution and damaging UV rays to attack it. When your skin regenerate itself at night it readily accepts the products you apply that much better. This is why I say that if you're going to spend the money on a good quality, somewhat expensive cream buy the night cream! And if there's some leftover, get the serum too!
What is a serum and why should I use it? Serums are additives to a skin care routine that are lighter in texture than a lotion and they penetrate the skins layers all the way down to the dermis (second layer) while the creams and lotions only go down the first layer. This is why the serum is applied first and why it is so effective! some of my favorite drugstore serums are the Vichy Aqualia Thermal Serum, Reversa Antioxidant Green Tea Serum, Caudalie Vinoperfect Radiance Serum, and the list could go on forever! My favorite professional line is Phyto5 and they have everything from day and night creams, cleansers and toners for all skin types and serums that can be used while doing a mini facial massage to get the circulation moving and also to be applied under the complementary clay masks or night creams. They are worth looking into and I will have some product reviews coming shortly!
Thanks for reading and please share this along with friends and family and of course feedback and questions are always welcome!
Presley Charlotte :)
Tuesday, 22 July 2014
Let's Talk Skin Care: The Importance of the pH Scale and Your Skin
Many people don't realize that the pH scale and science is a big deal when dealing with your skin. Your skin is actually acidic! And while many people don't cleanse properly (post coming soon about this), many don't cleanse at all. I will explain the importance of cleansing, but I feel I need to explain the importance of NOT using soap! I always hear this: "I use Ivory soap, its the most gentle product!", and I'm here to explain that no, it is not, and soap is much worse to cleanse with when taking care of your skin. Here's an exmplanation of the pH scale, and this is important because our skin is acidic and Ivory soap is alkaline:
Imagine a scale of 0-14. From 0-6 is acidic (so 0 would be battery acid) and 7 is neutral (water) and 8-14 is alkaline(also called base, 14 would be sodium hydroxide or Drano, which you wouldn't put directly on your skin!). Keep in mind that because it is alkaline does not mean that it is safer. In fact, the farther down the pH scale on the alkaline side is just as harmful as the acidic side. Ivory soap doesn't burn your skin but it is far up the alkaline side, and each step is 10x stronger. So if you start at 7, and you jump to a 6, that is 10x more acidic than 7. If you jump to a 4, thats three jumps so its 10x10x10 times more acidic than 7! Same goes for the alkaline side. Ivory soap is 10x10x10x10x more alkaline than 7 (10 000x) and 10x10x10x10x10x10x (1 000 000x) more alkaline than our skin. That's quite a difference!
So to repeat myself, our skin is acidic (4.5-5.5) as long as our Natural Moisture Factor (NMF) has not been stripped using soaps that are too alkaline. The NMF is made from our skins oils and sweat mixing together, so yes, a small amount of oil is supposed to be present on the skin to protect it from bacteria (when that's scrubbed away then bacteria can come in and create breakouts or allergic reactions)
So if you are using Ivory soap, as an example, which is at a pH of 11, then you're stripping the skin too much with what you were always told was the most gentle product, am I right? In actuality, Dove is the most gentle, as it has a pH of 7 (neutral).
But I'm not saying you should still wash your face with Dove soap, because we still need it to be a bit more acidic but gentle. Face creams also have to be the same pH level as our skin if using to maintain balance and continue to protect the skin. If you're looking for a product with AHA to exfoliate, keep in mind that the "peels" for at home are different from that in a dermatologist office because of the pH levels. In the store, if the pH level is a 3.5-4.5, then that's a really good mini peel. The creams with AHA will have to be the slightest bit more acidic than your skin to correctly function, but one thing is for sure, if its more neutral or alkaline than your skin, it won't work.
Most pharmacies will have litmus papers and tests that you can use to test the pH levels of a product. If it turns blue than it is alkaline (there will be different shades for different levels) and if it turns red it is acidic. Neutral won't change the paper any color.
Thanks for reading, sorry for all the science!
Keep and eye out for my post of the importance of a good skin care routine!!
Presley Charlotte
PS: If a skin care product says pH balanced, it usually means its balanced at 7. Some will be acid balanced, meaning at the pH of the skin. Keep that in mind, and if you have to, contact the company. Most don't mind that you're interested in knowing if its harmful or not, and most are proud to say that they've got it right! Don't hesitate to ask questions ;)
Imagine a scale of 0-14. From 0-6 is acidic (so 0 would be battery acid) and 7 is neutral (water) and 8-14 is alkaline(also called base, 14 would be sodium hydroxide or Drano, which you wouldn't put directly on your skin!). Keep in mind that because it is alkaline does not mean that it is safer. In fact, the farther down the pH scale on the alkaline side is just as harmful as the acidic side. Ivory soap doesn't burn your skin but it is far up the alkaline side, and each step is 10x stronger. So if you start at 7, and you jump to a 6, that is 10x more acidic than 7. If you jump to a 4, thats three jumps so its 10x10x10 times more acidic than 7! Same goes for the alkaline side. Ivory soap is 10x10x10x10x more alkaline than 7 (10 000x) and 10x10x10x10x10x10x (1 000 000x) more alkaline than our skin. That's quite a difference!
So to repeat myself, our skin is acidic (4.5-5.5) as long as our Natural Moisture Factor (NMF) has not been stripped using soaps that are too alkaline. The NMF is made from our skins oils and sweat mixing together, so yes, a small amount of oil is supposed to be present on the skin to protect it from bacteria (when that's scrubbed away then bacteria can come in and create breakouts or allergic reactions)
So if you are using Ivory soap, as an example, which is at a pH of 11, then you're stripping the skin too much with what you were always told was the most gentle product, am I right? In actuality, Dove is the most gentle, as it has a pH of 7 (neutral).
But I'm not saying you should still wash your face with Dove soap, because we still need it to be a bit more acidic but gentle. Face creams also have to be the same pH level as our skin if using to maintain balance and continue to protect the skin. If you're looking for a product with AHA to exfoliate, keep in mind that the "peels" for at home are different from that in a dermatologist office because of the pH levels. In the store, if the pH level is a 3.5-4.5, then that's a really good mini peel. The creams with AHA will have to be the slightest bit more acidic than your skin to correctly function, but one thing is for sure, if its more neutral or alkaline than your skin, it won't work.
Most pharmacies will have litmus papers and tests that you can use to test the pH levels of a product. If it turns blue than it is alkaline (there will be different shades for different levels) and if it turns red it is acidic. Neutral won't change the paper any color.
Thanks for reading, sorry for all the science!
Keep and eye out for my post of the importance of a good skin care routine!!
Presley Charlotte
PS: If a skin care product says pH balanced, it usually means its balanced at 7. Some will be acid balanced, meaning at the pH of the skin. Keep that in mind, and if you have to, contact the company. Most don't mind that you're interested in knowing if its harmful or not, and most are proud to say that they've got it right! Don't hesitate to ask questions ;)
Tuesday, 15 July 2014
Let's Talk Skin Conditions: Acne
Acne, as it is obvious, is a sebaceous gland disorder. This means that the sebaceous glands are either functioning to aggressively or not enough, in the case of acne, its too aggressively. Acne is a chronic inflammatory disorder of the sebaceous glands that is caused by many factors and has many myths around it. It seems to be a topic that confuses the beauty industry and clients equally.
So here is what happens in your skin when acne shows up: every oil pore is accompanied by a hair follicle, when that hair follicle gets plugged with sebum(oil), dead skin cells, and bacteria called propionibacterium, or P.acnes bacteria. This is the kind of bacteria that can survive and actively grow without oxygen, so when the pore is clogged it is the perfect environment. The sebaceous gland doesn't stop producing sebum at this point, it continues to pump which causes more irritation and inflammation and it is mixed with pus, the by-product of the growing bacteria. This can produce potential ruptures leading to acne lesions.
There are several causes of acne, all of which can't be pinpointed exactly because it can be as simple as cleansing the skin properly, or changing your moisturizer or it can be a quite complicated situation like hormonal adult acne. And trying to get rid of it and keep it away! That's another story!
There are 4 grades of acne, grade 1 being the lowest level of acne and grade 4 being the highest, usually requiring medical attention.
Grade 1 acne is mild acne consisting of open and closed comedones(blackheads and whiteheads) scattered over less than half of the face or back. This is the least sensitive and can be treated easily at home with antibacterial cleanser and an astringent toner (no more than %2 salicylic acid for most acne treatments) and a moisturizer that controls oil production and contains acne fighting ingredients, salicylic is sufficient, but there are others on the market like benzoyl peroxide, which is only recommended for severe breakouts, as it dries the skin quite a bit.
Grade 2 acne is moderate acne that has more open and closed comedones than grade 1, and it present on on approximately half of the surface area and can consist of pustules(containing pus) and papules(not containing pus/blind pimple). This grade and be treated the same as above, and both grades can be treated by a licensed esthetician using mild cleansers, mild enzymatic peels and oxygenating products. The esthetician will to proper extractions to free the clogged oil without breaking the skin (this is why it is important to not pick at home!). Acne is quite sensitive so if you pick at it yourself and cause any breaking of the skin, bleeding, or transfer of bacteria then the acne will actually spread and get worse due to the aggression and spread of infection.
Grade 3 acne is moderately severe and is characterized by numerous open and closed comedones, papules, pustules and the occasional cystic acne pimple(quite large and painful). The skin surrounding the breakouts are frequently red and inflamed. Scarring will occur if lesions have been picked or opened and not treated with proper precautions. It is best to use the most gentle products for home care and consult a dermatologist if the symptoms remain the same or get worse.
Grade 4 acne is the most sensitive and painful. It consists of severe acne with pustules and papules, as well as cysts and open and closed comedones all over the face, neck and back and sometimes the chest. Larger cystic lesions can cause deep scarring in the skin leaving a "pit" like appearance. This type of acne should be treated at home with the utmost care and gentleness, and should be treated by a dermatologist. Keep in mind that when you see a dermatologist for acne such as grades 3 and 4 they will prescribe a medication, it could be topical or oral (usually Vit A ointments or Accutane(isotretinoin) which is a derivative of Vitamin A).
Acne can be caused by anything! Emotional stress, oral contraceptives, greasy or humid environment, improper skin care routine, steroids, hormonal changes, or even skin surface friction and irritations. One thing is for sure, acne is always caused by excess androgen (a male hormone produced in the adrenal glands of men and women). Hormonal acne usually shows itself around the jawline and mouth area, and one rule of thumb for noticing hormonal changes is if you have acne, superfluous hair(not esthetically pleasing like hair on the chin of a woman) and weight gain show up all around the same period of time, then you may want to get your doctor to check your hormone levels.
Treatments for acne include topical and oral and can either be used together or separately, depending on severity. Topical treatments typically include benzoyl peroxide(dries and exfoliates) and salicylic acid(mildly dries and promotes cell turnover by mild exfoliation). Other more severe treatments include other acids such as azaleic acid and glycolic acids that promote cell turnover by produce a more than mild keratolytic action(exfoliation), Retin-A which contains tretinoin(an ingredient from the same derivative as what is in Accutane) and topical antibiotics that can be prescribed by a physician.
As an esthetician, I work to treat the skin as gentle as possible and believe that the better you are to your skin, the better it will be to you. No matter your skin type or skin condition, I always recommend a very mild cleanser. Something that doesn't strip too much oil and moisture from the skin but cleanses properly. A gentle toner, and a moisturizer that helps to disinfect. If there are open lesions present, polysporin or other topical antibiotics that don't require a prescription will work to heal the openings. This isn't a replacement for treatments for grades 3 and 4 but can help. Tea tree oil is a great extra if you are looking for a more natural route, but keep in mind it will tingle a bit like an astringent.
Keep an eye out for the next series; skin types! And what routines and products are best for each type!
Always remember to cleanse, tone and moisturize! Why all three? That's for another post ;)!
Presley Charlotte :)
So here is what happens in your skin when acne shows up: every oil pore is accompanied by a hair follicle, when that hair follicle gets plugged with sebum(oil), dead skin cells, and bacteria called propionibacterium, or P.acnes bacteria. This is the kind of bacteria that can survive and actively grow without oxygen, so when the pore is clogged it is the perfect environment. The sebaceous gland doesn't stop producing sebum at this point, it continues to pump which causes more irritation and inflammation and it is mixed with pus, the by-product of the growing bacteria. This can produce potential ruptures leading to acne lesions.
There are several causes of acne, all of which can't be pinpointed exactly because it can be as simple as cleansing the skin properly, or changing your moisturizer or it can be a quite complicated situation like hormonal adult acne. And trying to get rid of it and keep it away! That's another story!
There are 4 grades of acne, grade 1 being the lowest level of acne and grade 4 being the highest, usually requiring medical attention.
Grade 1 acne is mild acne consisting of open and closed comedones(blackheads and whiteheads) scattered over less than half of the face or back. This is the least sensitive and can be treated easily at home with antibacterial cleanser and an astringent toner (no more than %2 salicylic acid for most acne treatments) and a moisturizer that controls oil production and contains acne fighting ingredients, salicylic is sufficient, but there are others on the market like benzoyl peroxide, which is only recommended for severe breakouts, as it dries the skin quite a bit.
Grade 2 acne is moderate acne that has more open and closed comedones than grade 1, and it present on on approximately half of the surface area and can consist of pustules(containing pus) and papules(not containing pus/blind pimple). This grade and be treated the same as above, and both grades can be treated by a licensed esthetician using mild cleansers, mild enzymatic peels and oxygenating products. The esthetician will to proper extractions to free the clogged oil without breaking the skin (this is why it is important to not pick at home!). Acne is quite sensitive so if you pick at it yourself and cause any breaking of the skin, bleeding, or transfer of bacteria then the acne will actually spread and get worse due to the aggression and spread of infection.
Grade 3 acne is moderately severe and is characterized by numerous open and closed comedones, papules, pustules and the occasional cystic acne pimple(quite large and painful). The skin surrounding the breakouts are frequently red and inflamed. Scarring will occur if lesions have been picked or opened and not treated with proper precautions. It is best to use the most gentle products for home care and consult a dermatologist if the symptoms remain the same or get worse.
Grade 4 acne is the most sensitive and painful. It consists of severe acne with pustules and papules, as well as cysts and open and closed comedones all over the face, neck and back and sometimes the chest. Larger cystic lesions can cause deep scarring in the skin leaving a "pit" like appearance. This type of acne should be treated at home with the utmost care and gentleness, and should be treated by a dermatologist. Keep in mind that when you see a dermatologist for acne such as grades 3 and 4 they will prescribe a medication, it could be topical or oral (usually Vit A ointments or Accutane(isotretinoin) which is a derivative of Vitamin A).
Acne can be caused by anything! Emotional stress, oral contraceptives, greasy or humid environment, improper skin care routine, steroids, hormonal changes, or even skin surface friction and irritations. One thing is for sure, acne is always caused by excess androgen (a male hormone produced in the adrenal glands of men and women). Hormonal acne usually shows itself around the jawline and mouth area, and one rule of thumb for noticing hormonal changes is if you have acne, superfluous hair(not esthetically pleasing like hair on the chin of a woman) and weight gain show up all around the same period of time, then you may want to get your doctor to check your hormone levels.
Treatments for acne include topical and oral and can either be used together or separately, depending on severity. Topical treatments typically include benzoyl peroxide(dries and exfoliates) and salicylic acid(mildly dries and promotes cell turnover by mild exfoliation). Other more severe treatments include other acids such as azaleic acid and glycolic acids that promote cell turnover by produce a more than mild keratolytic action(exfoliation), Retin-A which contains tretinoin(an ingredient from the same derivative as what is in Accutane) and topical antibiotics that can be prescribed by a physician.
As an esthetician, I work to treat the skin as gentle as possible and believe that the better you are to your skin, the better it will be to you. No matter your skin type or skin condition, I always recommend a very mild cleanser. Something that doesn't strip too much oil and moisture from the skin but cleanses properly. A gentle toner, and a moisturizer that helps to disinfect. If there are open lesions present, polysporin or other topical antibiotics that don't require a prescription will work to heal the openings. This isn't a replacement for treatments for grades 3 and 4 but can help. Tea tree oil is a great extra if you are looking for a more natural route, but keep in mind it will tingle a bit like an astringent.
Keep an eye out for the next series; skin types! And what routines and products are best for each type!
Always remember to cleanse, tone and moisturize! Why all three? That's for another post ;)!
Presley Charlotte :)
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