Let's Talk Skin Care: Importance of a Daily (and Nightly) Routine

Welcome back to my blog! Today's post is about the importance of a good routine of cleansing, toning, and moisturizing! On almost a daily basis I hear "I wash with bar soap", "I don't moisturize, I'm too oily", "I don't do anything at all". While some people don't appear to have significant issues with their skin, continuing to not cleanse properly and avoiding moisturizing is going to wreak havoc on your skin!

Here is the basic routine : Cleanse, tone and moisturize. But with what? and when? You're going to see everywhere that you should wash your face twice a day and follow the same routine morning and night. That is only half true. In the morning your skin should only need and quick toning with your toner or micellar lotion (depending on the sensitivity of your skin) or an astringent(with salicylic acid, for oily or acne prone skin). Followed by your daytime moisturizer with SPF(or a separate sunscreen if needed) and eye cream, I like to use an eye gel because they're cooling, soothing and they de-puff and revitalize the eyes.

At night is when you should be doing the optimal cleansing. I always recommend a gentle cleanser because they don't strip the skin of its natural oils and the NMF(natural moisture factor). For a gentle cleanser it is best to use a milk cleanser for all skin types, or if your skin is prone to acne or extreme sebum secretions(super oily) then I would recommend a micellar gel as it is very gentle and great for sensitive skin conditions. Micellar waters and gels do not need to be rinsed, however when using them to remove makeup I recommend a second swipe with the products or a quick rinse.

Why do we cleanse? To remove makeup that was applied, and the oil and dirt we may have accumulated throughout the day. Everyone knows that you should cleanse at night, but not many people actually do it! It is obvious why we should cleanse at night, but some don't realize that by not following the basic routine at night they are causing more premature aging, more clogged pores, more acne, more sensitivity, and more risk for reactions towards makeup and bacteria.

There are many types of cleanser you can use and find on the market, like gels and foaming cleansers. The only time I would recommend a foaming cleanser is for acneic skin to use a mouse that is still quite gentle and  doesn't have a harsh lather, but will effectively remove excess oil and dirt from the pores as well as any surface bacteria, followed by an astringent or gentle toner and a moisturizer. I will have posts about skin types and the right products for each type coming soon.

Some of my favorite cleansers are La Roche Possay milk or gel(micellar) cleansers, Phyto 5 milk cleansers, Uriage Micellar Water, Dr Renaud Cleansing Milk, and even Spectro gel and Cetaphil are good choices!

After cleansing at night,  use your toner or astringent and follow with your nightly moisturizing routine. I always recommend a serum packed with antioxidants and vitamins that are specific to any "cures" your skin needs(anti-aging, anti-acne, anti-redness, etc) then your rich night cream with complementary ingredients to your serum. And of course a rich hydrating eye cream specific to your needs(puffiness, dark circles, aging and fine lines, etc).

For the toners, if you have balanced to dry skin or sensitive skin I recommend a hydrating toner that specifies dry or sensitive skin. If you have mature skin you can use the same type of toner. For oily skin I recommend a hydrating toner or an astringent depending on how clogged the pores are and if there is acne present an astringent will help to disinfect. Toners are necessary in the routine because they bring the skin back to the natural pH level after cleansing, and they prep the skin to better receive the moisturizers and serums you would use. Click here for my post on the pH scale and why it is important for your skin.

I like to use thermal waters for toners as well as a mid day refresher. Thermal waters are natural spring water that have extra minerals that are naturally present. These minerals help to rehydrate and remineralize the skin when it is lacking hydration or it is quite sensitive. Companies that have these thermal waters are Vichy, Avene Thermal Water, Uriage Thermal Water, La Roche Possay. The waters are also considered sterile cosmetics because when packaging these products the labs are all sterilized, the scientist are showered and suited in a sterile head to toe suit and the products are put in a pressurized can (like hairspray) so they do not require a preservative.

After toning comes moisturizing. Serums and heavy creams can be used during the day (usually winter when the air is dryer) however, they work best at night. The reason for this is that when you are resting and sleeping, your skin is also resting and regenerating itself 30% more than if you were awake and running errands and allowing pollution and damaging UV rays to attack it. When your skin regenerate itself at night it readily accepts the products you apply that much better. This is why I say that if you're going to spend the money on a good quality, somewhat expensive cream buy the night cream! And if there's some leftover, get the serum too!

What is a serum and why should I use it? Serums are additives to a skin care routine that are lighter in texture than a lotion and they penetrate the skins layers all the way down to the dermis (second layer) while the creams and lotions only go down the first layer. This is why the serum is applied first and why it is so effective! some of my favorite drugstore serums are the Vichy Aqualia Thermal Serum, Reversa Antioxidant Green Tea Serum, Caudalie Vinoperfect Radiance Serum, and the list could go on forever! My favorite professional line is Phyto5 and they have everything from day and night creams, cleansers and toners for all skin types and serums that can be used while doing a mini facial massage to get the circulation moving and also to be applied under the complementary clay masks or night creams. They are worth looking into and I will have some product reviews coming shortly!

Thanks for reading and please share this along with friends and family and of course feedback and questions are always welcome!

Presley Charlotte :)

Let's Talk Skin Care: The Importance of the pH Scale and Your Skin

Many people don't realize that the pH scale and science is a big deal when dealing with your skin. Your skin is actually acidic! And while many people don't cleanse properly (post coming soon about this), many don't cleanse at all. I will explain the importance of cleansing, but I feel I need to explain the importance of NOT using soap! I always hear this: "I use Ivory soap, its the most gentle product!", and I'm here to explain that no, it is not, and soap is much worse to cleanse with when taking care of your skin. Here's an exmplanation of the pH scale, and this is important because our skin is acidic and Ivory soap is alkaline:

Imagine a scale of 0-14. From 0-6 is acidic (so 0 would be battery acid) and 7 is neutral (water) and 8-14 is alkaline(also called base, 14 would be sodium hydroxide or Drano, which you wouldn't put directly on your skin!). Keep in mind that because it is alkaline does not mean that it is safer. In fact, the farther down the pH scale on the alkaline side is just as harmful as the acidic side. Ivory soap doesn't burn your skin but it is far up the alkaline side, and each step is 10x stronger. So if you start at 7, and you jump to a 6, that is 10x more acidic than 7. If you jump to a 4, thats three jumps so its 10x10x10 times more acidic than 7! Same goes for the alkaline side. Ivory soap is 10x10x10x10x more alkaline than 7 (10 000x) and 10x10x10x10x10x10x (1 000 000x) more alkaline than our skin. That's quite a difference!

So to repeat myself, our skin is acidic (4.5-5.5) as long as our Natural Moisture Factor (NMF) has not been stripped using soaps that are too alkaline. The NMF is made from our skins oils and sweat mixing together, so yes, a small amount of oil is supposed to be present on the skin to protect it from bacteria (when that's scrubbed away then bacteria can come in and create breakouts or allergic reactions)
So if you are using Ivory soap, as an example, which is at a pH of 11, then you're stripping the skin too much with what you were always told was the most gentle product, am I right? In actuality, Dove is the most gentle, as it has a pH of 7 (neutral).

But I'm not saying you should still wash your face with Dove soap, because we still need it to be a bit more acidic but gentle. Face creams also have to be the same pH level as our skin if using to maintain balance and continue to protect the skin. If you're looking for a product with AHA to exfoliate, keep in mind that the "peels" for at home are different from that in a dermatologist office because of the pH levels. In the store, if the pH level is a 3.5-4.5, then that's a really good mini peel. The creams with AHA will have to be the slightest bit more acidic than your skin to correctly function, but one thing is for sure, if its more neutral or alkaline than your skin, it won't work.

Most pharmacies will have litmus papers and tests that you can use to test the pH levels of a product. If it turns blue than it is alkaline (there will be different shades for different levels) and if it turns red it is acidic. Neutral won't change the paper any color.

Thanks for reading, sorry for all the science!
Keep and eye out for my post of the importance of a good skin care routine!!

Presley Charlotte


PS: If a skin care product says pH balanced, it usually means its balanced at 7. Some will be acid balanced, meaning at the pH of the skin. Keep that in mind, and if you have to, contact the company. Most don't mind that you're interested in knowing if its harmful or not, and most are proud to say that they've got it right! Don't hesitate to ask questions ;)

Let's Talk Skin Conditions: Acne

Acne, as it is obvious, is a sebaceous gland disorder. This means that the sebaceous glands are either functioning to aggressively or not enough, in the case of acne, its too aggressively. Acne is a chronic inflammatory disorder of the sebaceous glands that is caused by many factors and has many myths around it. It seems to be a topic that confuses the beauty industry and clients equally.

So here is what happens in your skin when acne shows up: every oil pore is accompanied by a hair follicle, when that hair follicle gets plugged with sebum(oil), dead skin cells, and bacteria called propionibacterium, or P.acnes bacteria. This is the kind of bacteria that can survive and actively grow without oxygen, so when the pore is clogged it is the perfect environment. The sebaceous gland doesn't stop producing sebum at this point, it continues to pump which causes more irritation and inflammation and it is mixed with pus, the by-product of the growing bacteria. This can produce potential ruptures leading to acne lesions.

There are several causes of acne, all of which can't be pinpointed exactly because it can be as simple as cleansing the skin properly, or changing your moisturizer or it can be a quite complicated situation like hormonal adult acne. And trying to get rid of it and keep it away! That's another story!

There are 4 grades of acne, grade 1 being the lowest level of acne and grade 4 being the highest, usually requiring medical attention.

Grade 1 acne is mild acne consisting of open and closed comedones(blackheads and whiteheads) scattered over less than half of the face or back. This is the least sensitive and can be treated easily at home with antibacterial cleanser and an astringent toner (no more than %2 salicylic acid for most acne treatments) and a moisturizer that controls oil production and contains acne fighting ingredients, salicylic is sufficient, but there are others on the market like benzoyl peroxide, which is only recommended for severe breakouts, as it dries the skin quite a bit.

Grade 2 acne is moderate acne that has more open and closed comedones than grade 1, and it present on on approximately half of the surface area and can consist of pustules(containing pus) and papules(not containing pus/blind pimple). This grade and be treated the same as above, and both grades can be treated by a licensed esthetician using mild cleansers, mild enzymatic peels and oxygenating products. The esthetician will to proper extractions to free the clogged oil without breaking the skin (this is why it is important to not pick at home!). Acne is quite sensitive so if you pick at it yourself and cause any breaking of the skin, bleeding, or transfer of bacteria then the acne will actually spread and get worse due to the aggression and spread of infection.

Grade 3 acne is moderately severe and is characterized by numerous open and closed comedones, papules, pustules and the occasional cystic acne pimple(quite large and painful). The skin surrounding the breakouts are frequently red and inflamed. Scarring will occur if lesions have been picked or opened and not treated with proper precautions. It is best to use the most gentle products for home care and consult a dermatologist if the symptoms remain the same or get worse.

Grade 4 acne is the most sensitive and painful. It consists of severe acne with pustules and papules, as well as cysts and open and closed comedones all over the face, neck and back and sometimes the chest. Larger cystic lesions can cause deep scarring in the skin leaving a "pit" like appearance. This type of acne should be treated at home with the utmost care and gentleness, and should be treated by a dermatologist. Keep in mind that when you see a dermatologist for acne such as grades 3 and 4 they will prescribe a medication, it could be topical or oral (usually Vit A ointments or Accutane(isotretinoin) which is a derivative of Vitamin A).

Acne can be caused by anything! Emotional stress, oral contraceptives, greasy or humid environment, improper skin care routine, steroids, hormonal changes, or even skin surface friction and irritations. One thing is for sure, acne is always caused by excess androgen (a male hormone produced in the adrenal glands of men and women). Hormonal acne usually shows itself around the jawline and mouth area, and one rule of thumb for noticing hormonal changes is if you have acne, superfluous hair(not esthetically pleasing like hair on the chin of a woman) and weight gain show up all around the same period of time, then you may want to get your doctor to check your hormone levels.

Treatments for acne include topical and oral and can either be used together or separately, depending on severity. Topical treatments typically include benzoyl peroxide(dries and exfoliates) and salicylic acid(mildly dries and promotes cell turnover by mild exfoliation). Other more severe treatments include other acids such as azaleic acid and glycolic acids that promote cell turnover by produce a more than mild keratolytic action(exfoliation), Retin-A which contains tretinoin(an ingredient from the same derivative as what is in Accutane) and topical antibiotics that can be prescribed by a physician.

As an esthetician, I work to treat the skin as gentle as possible and believe that the better you are to your skin, the better it will be to you. No matter your skin type or skin condition, I always recommend a very mild cleanser. Something that doesn't strip too much oil and moisture from the skin but cleanses properly. A gentle toner, and a moisturizer that helps to disinfect. If there are open lesions present, polysporin or other topical antibiotics that don't require a prescription will work to heal the openings. This isn't a replacement for treatments for grades 3 and 4 but can help. Tea tree oil is a great extra if you are looking for a more natural route, but keep in mind it will tingle a bit like an astringent.

Keep an eye out for the next series; skin types! And what routines and products are best for each type!

Always remember to cleanse, tone and moisturize! Why all three? That's for another post ;)!

Presley Charlotte :)

Let's Talk Skin Conditions: Rosacea

Not many people know what rosacea is because it can be mistaken for other skin conditions like acne. Rosacea is actually a sebaceous gland disorder (oil gland disorder, like acne) and is quite sensitive, if taken care of properly it can subside and be quite tolerable.

Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory condition of the face in which small red veins called capillaries become dilated and inflamed. This is called telangiectasia (tel-AN-jekt-STAY-jee-ah) These inflamed capillaries are usually present on the cheeks, around and on the nose, and on the chin. This skin condition is often accompanied by red, acne-type pustules and papules, which explains why it is mistaken for acne. The more severe form of rosacea, called rhinophyma, can cause localized swelling of the skin on nose, and this can affect both men and women. Rhinophyma is marked with numerous broken capillaries on the nose causing elevated, dark red blotches on the skin.

There are several things that can affect this condition and if the capillaries are constantly inflamed and dilated they can become broken. When they are broken they look like little red squiggly lines on the affected areas of the face and are virtually permanent. Changing from hot to cold environments quickly will affect it (think going from freezing cold in the Canadian winter to a very warm car with the heat vents pointed towards you). The cold constricts the blood vessels and capillaries and the heat will dilate them.

Alcohol affects rosacea because it stimulates circulation in the skin. Ever notice that after several drinks your face starts to feel warm, like you're blushing almost, that's the circulation being stimulated. If the circulation is stimulated constantly by alcohol consumption, then the capillaries are at risk for dilating too much and breaking. So all in moderation, if any at all.

Rosacea is more prevalent in individuals of 30s and up, but can affect all age groups. It typically affects women and fair skin types, but men can also develop rosacea. It is best to avoid any harsh products such as AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids, ex Glycolic Acid), BHAs (beta hydroxy acids, ex Salicylic Acid), and PHAs (poly hydroxy acids, ex Malic Acid). All these acids are used in acne and anti aging products and should be avoided by those with rosacea because they cause a chemical reaction on the skin to exfoliate the top layer and this will cause extra sensitivity to anyone, let alone sensitive skin types. Products that are made for sensitive skin and that are marketed specifically for rosacea are best to use, such as Cliniderm Rosacalm, they also have a day cream with SPF.

As a skin care routine I would recommend a very mild cleanser, micellar gels are great because they don't have to be rinsed off and can effectively cleanse the skin without damaging the natural moisture barrier. Next, a gentle toner and soothing cream that both protects and moisturizes, such as the above mentioned.

Once again, thanks for reading! Hopefully this was helpful for some and if you have any questions or suggestions for post, please comment below! 

Presley Charlotte :)

Let's Talk Ingredients Lists: Conscious VS Crazy

This topic is quite important as it seems to be the most elusive to many. The ingredients list, what's on it, why is it there, what does it mean? why can't I pronounce this word, the front says this but the back doesn't! These are all things I hear almost on a daily basis, and everyone has the right to be concerned and conscious about what they put on their skin as well as in their bodies because it takes 29 seconds, approximately, for a product to soak into the bloodstream, however, I'm here to tell you that there is a fine line between conscious and crazy and there are a few who are on the crazy side of things!

To start, I hear people often say, what's that word? I've never heard it before, I can't pronounce it, so it must be bad! OK people, that only works for processed food in the middle aisles of the grocery store! When it comes to cosmetic products everything changes, every country has governing agencies that put rules on how products are made and they regulate the use of ingredients in products and deem what is safe and unsafe. Although I am one of many that agree that they should narrow the list and remove some of the more harmful ingredients, however they are allowed in certain percentages of the product and not any higher, that's why it's deemed OK. One of the other rules is that they are to be written on the back of the product in order of concentration (the first ingredient being the highest, usually water at 50% or less) and these ingredients are to be listed in their latin/proper name. So unless you speak latin, or any kind of scientific language, I don't expect you to be able to pronounce any of it.

Next, "the front says vitamin E, or vitamin A , or vitamin C" but the back doesn't have any of these! Once again, they are listed by their proper scientific or latin names, which will look like the company is lying to you, but all you have to do is your research. Vitamin E will be shown in the ingredients list as tocopherol, a-tocopherol, tocotrentinol, a-tocopherol acetate, and so on. Vitamin A looks like this: retinol, retin-A, retinoid, retinoic acid, carotene, beta-carotene, alpha-carotene, gamma-carotene, etc. And Vitamin C; L-ascorbic acid, ascorbate, dehydroascorbic acid, and other variations. Now looking at these if you had read them right from the box, would have you made the association with each of these vitamins or assumed they were chemicals?

On to the next subtopic, preservatives! This one is a good one, and really I should have a whole post dedicated to this one because it seems to be a difficult concept to wrap around the mind; preservatives keep things from going bad, moldy and otherwise unpleasant to use. If the products goes bad and moldy and allows bacteria to produce, we will get sick or develop some kind of skin rash, even a fungus, like Tinea Corpus(ring worm of the skin/body). Preservatives are much more important than people think and when I see products that claim to be preservative free I get nervous. I immediately turn the package around and search the ingredients list for an ingredient that would be there in place of the "preservatives" because a product requires a preservative in order to claim a shelf life or be able to be stocked in a warehouse for long periods of time.

There are all kinds of "better for you" preservatives on the market that brands can use, typically a natural or botanically based product will use a mixture of essential oils to preserve their products because they are naturally anti-fungal, anti-bacterial, and germicidal. Many companies used preservatives like parabens, but we all know for sure that we don't want those! There are two types of containers, however, that I have come across where the product truly does not need a preservative, and the idea of it is so that people with extremely sensitive skin that breakouts into allergic reactions easily wont react to the product. These two brands are La Roche Possay's Toleriane cream and Avene Tolerance Extreme and Skin Recovery Crème.

The idea behind La Roche Possay: Toleriane is that the product is in a bag within the pump bottle. The pump of the bottle has a "no backfire" kind of technology so once the product has been pumped out it closes immediately without letting air flow into the product. The Avene products have a similar device called the DEFI, allowing for what they call "sterile cosmetics". The DEFI works the same, once you squeeze the tube the product is dispensed and then the technology closes up so there is no contact with airborne bacteria.

So unless every brand on the planet decides to hop on this band wagon, there will always be preservatives.

There are a few more things to talk about here, bare with me! Fragrances, they will virtually never not be there because ingredients have their own scent and many brands use essential oils as fragrances. If a product says scent free and there's still a lingering scent, usually because it's a essential oil fragrance and not an alcohol based fragrance. If there is not scent at all, good chance the company uses a chemical ingredient to mask the smell.

The next one I just love hearing: why are there so many ingredients? There's no way they need all this! News flash! When you look at the back of a basic cream you will see in no particular order these ingredients, amongst others : water, oil (vegetable, plant based), glycerin(vegetable based), essential oils, extracts, preservatives, etc. Yeah, that looks good, lets throw all that in a jar, shake it and  go right? Wrong! Everyone knows that water and oil are immiscible(don't mix together) and there are some essential oils that need to be mixed in oil or glycerin before introduced to the complete mix. but in order to allow all these to mix together to create a smooth crème in a jar that you buy at the store it requires another kind of ingredient; an emulsifier (or binder, if you will). So now we've extended our ingredients list by at least 1-3 ingredients.

Next, certain companies(typically the home based, catalogue type) will claim non-toxic. By non-toxic, people think it means all natural, chemical free, botanical, and all the nice and lovely stuff they want to imagine. What non-toxic really means is NON-TOXIC. No matter what kind of ingredient it is, it is safe. Yeah, you read right, chemicals that are man made can be safe! And botanical/all natural from the back yard types can be harmful. Example: poison oak, poison ivy, rhubarb leaves, some ferns, mushrooms, some wild flowers and some flowers you buy at the store for your garden. They are all natural, but you're not going to grab a leaf of poison ivy and rub it on your face, are you? Didn't think so.

Lastly (I think), if you are looking for a truly chemical free product, you might as well bottle air. Products are never going to be chemical free because virtually everything is a chemical! Everything is made from the table of elements, which are chemicals! Some naturally derived, some man-made. And when you see on an ingredients like aloe leaf extract, I hope you don't imagine a factory worker squishing a full aloe leaf in the jar of your face crème in its pure form! No, most botanical extracts are extracted in ways that sometimes require chemical aid. Some fragrance oils from plants are extracted from alcohols like vodka. At this point its no longer in the purest form and has now been turned into a chemical form and will have chemical reactions with other ingredients. It's all science, its just the way it works! And if you go far enough into this science and chemicals VS organics topic, you'll realize that you yourself are a bundle of elements from the periodic table, the same elements that make the same chemicals as everything else in this world!

So hopefully I have answered some questions in this post, and have diffused any confusion and concern about this topic. It irks me to the very core when this topic comes up because its usually pushed on others by those who think they are educated but all they did was read a magazine article saying scientists are doing tests, and that doesn't necessarily mean its true yet! I often refer to EWG's Skin Deep website, they are very thorough with they're research and they will show if a product doesn't have enough data to say if it is one way or another. When you see those "ingredients to avoid" lists, be sure it's from an educated source, and I always like to cross reference it with EWG.

My "avoid" list is short and sweet because it is most important to avoid these first: oxybenzone(sunscreens, click here and here for my post on this), parabens(there are several, but all you need to know is that if the word ends in paraben, it's bad) although some parabens are found in natural sources (methylparaben apparently is in blueberries and has anti-microbial effects) they are still harmful to the body systems, mineral oils and petrolatum products(not the worst, but typically not the best), watch out for leads, talc(do your research, it is a mined ingredient just like mineral oil and petrolatum and if present in most powdered products such as powder makeup, baby powder, and most often in prescription medications), and aluminums. As I do my own research, this list may get bigger, but for now this is the basic precautions I take.

So sorry that this post is quite lengthy. I could have done it in two posts but I find this topic much to important and once I get on a role with it I have to hit every base! So as always, thank you for reading and keep an eye out for my next two topics in my skin condition series! So far I covered Psoriasis and Eczema, so next on my list are Rosacea and Acne!

Presley Charlotte :)

Let's Talk Skin Conditions: Eczema

Eczema affects millions of people around the world. Some don't even know they have it! It can show up at anytime is someone's life and it can be severe breakouts requiring medical attention or minimal breakouts that resemble mere patches of dry skin.

It is characterized as either dry or moist lesions from an eruption of small vesicles and watery discharge. (I know, that sounds gross!) The skin will look red and scaly, with crusts as if the skin had been scratched and is trying to heal. This kind of skin condition is not contagious but can be quite severe at times. It is accompanied by inflammatory redness and itching. It can be chronic (lasting three months or longer) or acute (severe breakouts lasting less than six weeks). It is important to check with a physician or dermatologist if symptoms don't cease or if they get worse.

Treatments for eczema is very similar to that of psoriaris; prescriptive crèmes, and steroid crèmes and ointments. Some skin conditions are also easily affected by diet and lack of hydration, so it is optional, but a good idea to try an elimination diet to find any possible triggers. For treatments that don't require a prescription for less severe conditions, its best to use an oatmeal and shea butter based crème, lotion or body butter. Fragrance free is key! Even in cleansers and body washes. There are several really great body washes that are oil based for sensitive skin that will cleanse and nourish the skin at the same time, but don't think you can skip the moisturizer because you will still need it. La Roche Possay has a really great one called LipikarOil. Eucerin also has a great one that is an oil that's not as thick and has a slight lather.

As for baths, avoid hot water because soaking in water pulls the moisture within the skin outward and actually decreases hydration. It's best to use an oatmeal bath or bath oils in lukewarm water. Renew bath oil from Melaleuca is a great oil for anyone of any age, its great for rash like conditions as well as protecting the skin from moisture loss.

Lastly, eczema can be triggered by stress so it's best to keep your schedule clear of things that create anxiety or nervousness. From experience, don't take on more than you can handle and be sure that the things you're making time for excites you instead of making you anxious and fearful. Another great tip for anyone looking to improve their health, clear their mind, even help their bodies on the inside and their skin glow; meditation, or simple breathing without any distractions!

Thank you to some friends for requesting the skin conditions series, there are more to come! To check out my post on psoriasis click here.

Presley Charlotte :)

Let's Talk Skin Conditions: Psoriasis

Psoriasis is a skin disease/condition that can be quite easily irritated and can show up at any point in a persons lifetime. It is hereditary and doesn't always begin right at birth. It is a think, silvery and scaly patch of skin that normally surrounds a reddened area of skin. This red part can be quite itchy and the dry, flaking scales around it doesn't help the itching one bit. It is a condition that is usually triggered by environmental factors but also stress. If a person is predisposed to psoriasis it can be triggered at any age.

Psoriasis isn't contagious, but is also incurable. It can, however, be kept at bay with treatment depending on how severe the breakouts. The condition is usually present on elbows, knees, back and scalp, usually anywhere that tends to be the driest body part on that person. Because these scaly patches become quite thick, they require exfoliation prior to treatments. I usually suggest a good sugar or sea salt scrub, sisal mitt or both. (A sisal mitt is the shower glove that has a gritty texture to help slough off dry, dead skin cells).

Once the dead, scaly patches have been exfoliated (not to the point of pain, irritation or oozing), the area can be treated. Treatments usually consist of coal tar preparations, steroid crèmes (usually with prescription, meant for severe cases. This type of treatment can cause scarring due to the effect on the skin. Use with caution), vitamin a crèmes (a prescription is required, this treatment will cause photosensitivity. Direct sunlight after application is not recommended, also redness may occur for a period of time before the area begins to look and feel better. Usually meant for severe cases). Ultraviolet light therapy has also been used for treatments and is often suggested instead of the above because there are less "complications".

Sometimes visiting a tanning bed for 2-3 minutes a week can do the trick, not enough to build a tan or to harm the skin, but enough to get the vitamin D needed to help the body regenerate itself. I recommend a stand up bed to the skin is not in contact with the bulbs or the cleaners that are used to sanitize them. Also no tanning lotions containing any accelerators or tingle, as they may irritate the areas. I usually like to use a sunscreen on any sensitive areas such as lips and nipples, but for the rest of the body I would go without a lotion and then moisturize with a urea based product or  a sensitive skin moisturizer meant for conditions such as this.

I must make this clear as well, I am not a doctor, nor am I a dermatologist. I am an esthetician and can explain the treatments and conditions, however if something is quite severe I highly recommend seeing a dermatologist to treat the affected area. Be aware, though, that a dermatologist will most likely prescribe a cortisone(steroid) crème or vitamin A crèmes as they are sure to treat the symptoms, but if you're not keen on the side effects be sure to let them know to find other treatments suitable for your needs.

Have a lovely day!

Presley Charlotte :)

Let's Talk Stretch Marks!

For all the women out there who wake up, get in the shower or put on that cute bathing suit or crop top and short shorts and then noticed the only thing worse than cellulite on your legs and hips; stretch marks! This post will explain what a stretch mark is, why it happens and how to prevent and diminish visible stretch marks!

I want to thank my friend for suggesting this topic! It's one that is easy to explain and if treated quickly and at the first stage, very easy to fix!

A stretch mark, is exactly that, a mark from skin that was stretched. The layers of your skin are stacked on top of each other like layers of a cake. But each layer is thick enough that the cells kind of intertwine themselves to create a mesh-like barrier to hold in water to keep hydrated and a fluid feel. When this hydration level isn't sufficient, the interlocking skin cells begin to disintegrate, shrivel up if you will, and separate from each other. The elasticity in the skin begins to diminish and the skin no longer "bounces" back into proper form. This separation of skin cells and lack of hydration is the first thing that causes stretch marks, the next is increased weight gain in a short period of time, this includes any kind of weight gain, not just pregnancy.

Think of an elastic band, when the elastic band has be stretched beyond its capability and it is and older elastic so you can see little cracks on the edge, if you were to stretch that one more time as big as you can it will break.

Another example: put your hands together in front of you, fingers of one hand in between the fingers of the other and palms open facing you. Now slowly pull them away from each other, you see the gaps?

Both these examples show the same effects of the skin when stretch marks occur, the skin becomes too dry and dehydrated and when the skin needs to expand to compensate for any sudden or extreme weight gain that's when it starts to tear and you see "gaps". A stretch mark is a "wound" because if severe they can bleed and get infected.

To prevent stretch marks from forming, its always best to drink sufficient amount of water throughout the day and hydrate your skin from head to toe! I find body oils and Shea butters best but find your favorite and stick with it. To keep hydration in at night after a shower, moisturize your favorite body cream and once that's soaked in slather a body oil on top, this keeps the water in the skin and the product from evaporating to quickly! I suggest a vitamin e oil or grape seed oil because of the antioxidants, many like jojoba oils or sweet almond oils too.

To treat a stretch mark, it has to be red. If your stretch mark has turned silvery white, its too late and you may have to resort to a minor surgery if too big or laser treatments. If they are still pinky red, you can treat them to be less visible. Always use a body cream and keep drinking water, but in this case you will want to invest in a vitamin e oil, and the big bottle is best because this is a slow process! Bio oil is a tested and true brand, its my favorite! You'll want to apply the oil on the affected area twice a day, if you can only do it once a day do it at night, otherwise aim for twice!

Vitamin e helps to heal the skin and moisturize as well, its the best way! If your stretch marks are thick or deep, avoid body scrubs and loofas on the area, also if walking a long distance, and they are on your legs, keep the area covered to avoid chafing, they can bleed from this. Also moisturize the area after swimming in chlorinated waters or salt waters because it will cause more dehydration!

My next piece of advice is patience. This is a long process, but there are so many benefits to using vitamin e oil that it just turns into a routine (for me a nightly routine) and after a few weeks you'll notice less redness, the marks are smaller, and your skin is softer!

Good luck! And have a great day!

Presley Charlotte :)

Let's Talk Aging!

Alright, this one everybody asks about, but are afraid of the answers because ultimately, you can't stop aging, BUT you can slow it down. I will tell you how you can do this, but first you should know what is aging exactly, why it happens (not just because we get old!) and what happens! Then how to slow the process. Keep in mind that the body(and skin) have two kinds of aging processes, extrinsic and intrinsic.

This post will outline mostly extrinsic, which is aging due to external factors like pollution, sun damage, climatic damage, dehydration, lack of good nutrition. Intrinsic aging is anything on the inside or systemic, the process that is hereditary, so if your mother or grandmother don't smoke, tan or drink alcohol, are very athletic and drink lots of water and eat all the veggies, proteins, and fruits, and takes care of their skin, but they still have deep wrinkles and lack of elasticity, there may not be anything you can do that is have extreme effects, but don't give up!

So first, what is aging? Aging is the process that our body goes through, not just our skin, and it affects every single fiber of our beings. Everything in our body is made of cells. Cells make tissues, tissues make organs, organs make systems and the systems make our bodies. So, aging directly affects all our cells.

There are different types of cells; there are brain cells, skin cells, nerve cells, blood cells, white blood cells(deals with lymph, and yet another blog post ;)),Macrophages and Microphages, and Lymphocytes (also deals with lymph). Today we're talking about skin cells.

Your skin has three layers: epidermis(top), dermis(middle), and the subcutaneous (also known as the hypodermis, bottom). The Epidermis then has five other layers, but the ones we care about today are the top layer(stratum corneum) and the bottom layer(stratum germinativum, or basal layer).

Let's start with the dermis, because any damage that occurs on the skin goes deeper into the second layer, not just the first layer, and if any damage is caused in this layer it is basically irreversible. The dermis contains fibroblast cells that produce collagen and elastin which is the main hype for products in the anti-aging section, however it is not the same, it is a synthetic collagen. When the skin ages, the collagen and elastin fibers in the dermis start to break down and cause the skin to sink, this is what shows those deep wrinkles. When elastin breaks, it snaps. its like a tree, the branch is the elastin, the big vibrant leaves are the collagen, the elastin supports the collagen and when that branch snaps, the leaves fall to and then there's a gap in the foliage of the tree. Same with skin!

How do we prevent this? First things first, stop smoking. Its no secret that smoking is one of the biggest factors in our extrinsic aging process(aging due to external factors), but no one really knows why. One cigarette can deteriorate a persons total vitamin c for the day! So if you take your vitamins and you take vitamin C, one cigarette will counteract that immediately. You would have to take a vitamin C tablet after every cigarette which is not a good idea either! So quit the habit and take your vitamin C.

Vitamin C directly affects the production of collagen and elastin in your skin, and helps to maintain it. Without vitamin C, your skin will age much faster! Many skin creams will contain and topical vitamin C, by all means go ahead and try it, but its best to take a supplement or if you can, eat fruits and vegetables that are high in vitamin C.

Next, dehydration. This will cause aging skin because if the skin isn't hydrate from the inside, it will look it on the outside! What happens is the skin begins to get hard on the surface, thin and flaccid within the dermis, and will begin to show flakiness and any fine lines. The skin may even crack due to severe dryness. If you are prone to dry skin, it is best to have a heavier moisturizer that is of oil base and to drink the recommended daily amount of water. If you have oilier skin, good for you because oily skin doesn't show signs of aging until much later in life, however you will not be immune to dehydration. Dry skin means lack of oil, so oily skin isn't dry, but a good rule of thumb is everyone has lack of water(dehydration) so drink those 8-9 glasses of water a day!

One of the last thing that shows as skin ages is dark spots, or age spots. These are spots that appear due to overproduction of melanin from the basal layer. Melanin is produced often when the skin is damaged. This can be from a sunburn, a cut that scared over, a scar that got burned, a pimple that was picked and turned into a dark scar, etc. So basically, don't pick that pimple or scar and make sure to be completely safe when in the sun!

If dark spots appear, the best way to get rid of them is an exfoliation. Spots from scars and post acne scars can usually be exfoliated by a mechanical scrub, but ages spots usually require a deeper exfoliation with a chemical, like glycolic acid, salicylic acid, malic acid or lactic acid. Kojic acid is in most anti-aging and anti-spot treatments because it effectively lightens and exfoliates. Vitamin C also helps to brighten the skin tone, so it is quite common to see those two ingredients in one product.

Everything above is not all the reason why our skin ages, they are just the biggest effects of the extrinsic aging! To recap, loss of collagen and elastin cannot be reversed, but taking vitamin C or using hydrating products with vitamin C will slow the process and create a radiant and youthful appearance. Dehydration happens to every single being! So keep hydrated from within as well as on the surface! Protect yourself from the sun! Use SPF of at least 15 or 30 if staying out longer. If spots occur due to sun damage or aging, use a chemical exfoliant like glycolic acid(from sugarcane, it is safe) or malic acid(also safe, it's from apples). If using these exfoliants, you must wear at least SPF 30 on your face if going outside! They will make the skin photosensitive and burn easily, then reverse all that you're trying to do! My favorite products that contain these exfoliants are NeoStrata.

For more information about sunscreen please check out the part 1 and 2 I wrote on SPF, ingredients, and what to look for.

I'd like to thank a friend of mine for requesting this topic!

Presley Charlotte :)